Relaxers for hair have long been a beauty staple, but what exactly does it mean to have relaxed hair? In simple terms, relaxed hair refers to hair that has been chemically straightened using the same chemicals that are used for a perm. These products work by breaking down the natural bonds within the hair and then combing the hair straight, setting the new texture into place.
Meet the expert
- Jennifer Thomas is a hairstylist in Beverly Hills.
- Todd Edwards is a hairstylist based in Atlanta who works with Mizani.
"When sodium or calcium hydroxide relaxers are applied, they break down the disulfide bonds, these are chemical bonds that hold the hair's protein structure together and contribute to its natural characteristics,” explains Beverly Hills-based stylist, Jennifer Thomas. “Once these bonds are broken, they cannot be repaired, leaving the hair permanently straightened.”
Pros and Cons of Relaxed Hair
Relaxed hair can be easier to manage and style, particularly for those with naturally curly or coily textures. It requires significantly less time and effort for daily upkeep, and once styled, it tends to hold styles longer. "Another big advantage is that relaxed hair can withstand humid or rainy weather without reverting back to its natural texture," says Todd Edwards, master stylist at Purple Door Salon. This makes it a popular choice for those seeking a sleek, low-maintenance look.
However, Edwards notes that relaxed hair comes with potential drawbacks, especially if not properly cared for. "Relaxed hair can be prone to breakage and dryness if the relaxer is poorly applied or if maintenance is neglected." To maintain the health of relaxed hair, regular deep conditioning, protein treatments, and quarterly trims are essential. Plus, keeping up with retouches to treat new growth is key, as the line of demarcation between relaxed hair and natural hair is especially fragile. “Staying on top of these treatments is key to keeping relaxed hair strong and healthy," explains the stylist.
How to Care for Relaxed Hair
Relaxed hair is more delicate and requires extra attention to prevent damage and maintain its vitality. Below, our experts share some crucial steps to ensure your relaxed hair remains healthy and resilient, while preventing the common challenges that come with relaxed hair.
Deep Conditioning
Moisture plays a vital role in maintaining healthy relaxed hair. Regular use of leave-in conditioners or nourishing oils is essential for keeping the hair hydrated, soft, and manageable. “Deep conditioning treatments are also critical for providing moisture and hydration, restoring elasticity, and preventing dryness and breakage,” says Edwards. These treatments can significantly enhance the overall condition of your hair, making it less prone to damage.
In addition to moisturizing, incorporating protein treatments into your routine every few weeks is beneficial for strengthening the hair. These treatments help replenish lost keratin, which is vital for maintaining the hair's structure and resilience. However, it's important to balance protein with moisture to avoid brittleness, as too much protein can lead to dry, stiff hair.
Regular Trims
To effectively manage and prevent split ends, aim for regular trims every 8 to 12 weeks, this practice not only eliminates damaged ends but also promotes healthy growth.
Heat Protectant
Proper handling of relaxed hair is equally crucial, as factors such as heat styling and rough treatment can lead to increased damage. Always use a quality heat protectant when styling to shield your hair from potential harm.
Prevent Over-Processing
To maintain the integrity of your relaxed hair, it’s essential to space out relaxer touch-ups every 8 to 12 weeks. This helps prevent overlapping and breakage, which can occur if relaxers are applied too frequently or incorrectly, as Thomas points out, “If not done properly over time, the ends of your hair can become excessively straight and stiff compared to the mid-shaft and root area.” Therefore, it’s crucial to ensure that your stylist carefully manages the processing of your ends to maintain a healthy balance throughout your hair.
How Often to Moisturize Relaxed Hair
When caring for your hair at home, it's important to adjust your routine based on how your hair feels. “If your hair feels dry or brittle, you may need to moisturize more frequently,” says Edwards, who typically recommends moisturizing every two to three days. Maintaining the right moisture balance is also essential for keeping relaxed hair soft and manageable. Lightweight, water-based leave-in conditioners or creams work well to replenish moisture without making the hair feel heavy.
Edwards emphasizes the importance of sealing in that moisture with a light oil or serum to ensure lasting hydration throughout the day. "I love using light moisturizing products like coconut soufflé," he shares. "And when clients visit the salon, I always recommend a deep conditioning or steam treatment for maximum moisture."
How to Transition from Relaxed Hair to Natural Hair
Transitioning from relaxed hair to natural hair can be a seamless journey with the right approach. One effective method is to pull your hair back into a chic updo or ponytail, which Thomas says can help disguise the differences in texture. Alternatively, she suggests blow-drying or pressing the new growth to achieve a sleek, uniform look that blends with the relaxed sections. Braids are another great choice.
Another approach is the big chop, where you gradually trim away the relaxed ends as your natural hair grows out. Edwards emphasizes that this method allows for a fresh start while maintaining a stylish appearance throughout the transition.